Lake Garda 2008

Lake Garda 2008 Or Our First Solo Tour




It all started when we received an invite to Rays Nephews wedding in Malcesine Castle on Lake Garda, having been there on a Panther run a few years ago and fallen in love with the place, we accepted. We decided to go in the Kallista so Ray set about planning the route. We thought originally about winging it as we had done the year before when joining one Panther tour with another, but then we had Dawn and Brian to keep us company, not so this time it was to be just the two of us. Picking the more structured approach we travelled each day for a couple of hours then stopped for lunch and travelled on again for another couple hours to the next nights stop. Ray tried to find hotels or regions with something of interest giving us a flavour of middle France/Italy/Europe.
The Troglodyte pool
25th June...... Awoken by a hand bell being rung we knew we had about half an hour to wash dress and be down in the car ready for disembarking the ferry. Found the road easily and ran into St Pol de Leon for breakfast. Sun was shining, we knew this route fairly well having travelled it several times before, and all was well with the world. We tootled on down stopping at Chateaubriant for lunch, French stick stuffed with salad and a beer in a street cafe within the shadow of the Château. And then on to hotel Demure de Vignole just outside Saumur in Turquant. We arrived in good time so we dropped in to the Petit Bar in Montsoreau where the owner and his wife recognised us and the car, showing us pictures he had taken 2 years ago even emailing them to us from his lap top (unfortunately they have never arrived Ray). Refreshed we made our way up to the hotel booked in and headed straight for the pool. This was a Troglodyte hotel, and the pool entered a grotto in the side of the cliff lit with coloured lights it was very magical. Refreshed we dined in Saumur and were back on the hotel terrace sipping wine watching the swifts catching flies as the sun went down.
Gates to the pool area

Hotel entrance
26th June...... After le Petit dejeuner on the sunny terrace were journeyed on. The road was a bit fiddly round Tours but we picked up the A85 and motored on down passed Bourges, turned off for lunch and re-fuel, then on down to Clermont Ferrand and Royat. The Spa town was a little disappointing as was the hotel, but they did have a Jacuzzi so, Ray and I relaxed having a soak with a glass of wine.
Widmill in the Loire
27th June...... Left Royat with the temperature reasonable but it started to warm up as we hit the motorway. We had a lovely lunch on a motorway service station outside terrace, tables under brollies, all very pleasant. Travelling on we crossed over the border into Italy and arrived at Susa Oulx high in the mountains of Gran Bosco national park in the Piedmont area, it had topped 40 degs today. The hotel room was cool with magnificent views from the Balcony. After chilling with showers and drinks we walked up a track to the next village. It was still very hot as we walked through the woods glimpsing breathtaking views of the Italian Alps, with their snow capped peaks. Surprisingly we saw very little wildlife, 1 Jay was the total sum of our sightings. Back to the hotel we had a drink outside serenaded by the cow bells in the distance, allowing for the main diners to have eaten first as when we had arrived earlier we had been bombarded by young lads going wild about the car. Our fellow guests were from the youth football squad of Turin FC as it is much cooler for them to practice up in the mountains. They were great fun and well behaved but quite noisy. Far too much food and very friendly staff the place was great.
view from Hotel balcony
Views across the Gran Bosco park More views
Leaving Gran Bosco 28th June..... We left Oulx in good time and joined the motorway heading for Lake Garda. The motorway took us passed Turin and Milan both seemed very industrial. The journey was very hot (42deg today Ray) and dusty (Oh for a Kallista with air-con Ray) and the least enjoyable part of the whole trip, we made it to the bottom of the lake just in time before we both expired with the heat. The run up along the lake side was both beautiful and refreshing. It was the weekend and the whole of Italy and his wife were out sunbathing on any scrap of sand or rock, or on the water or walking around the little places we passed through. We arrived at the hotel Prima Luna, Malcesine and were greeted with a welcome drink from the manager whilst waiting to be shown to our room. when the receptionist opened the door there was large pool of water on the floor from the faulty air con unit. We left her to sort it and made our way to the pool area. The swim was lush (as the kids say now) it was a beautiful pool, part infinity with uninterrupted views of the lake. The hotel was situated lake side with just a walkway and small beach to separate them and about a 1/4 of a mile from Malcesine centre, almost in the shadow of the Castle where the wedding is to be held. We dined in the hotel that night, it was rather an elaborate affair with lots of courses but the food was very good. Our room had a magnificent view of the lake both up to Riva and down as far as Portese. Riva seemed always to be shrouded in a haze and is the cooler end of the lake.
Malcesine Castle
Lake Garda
29th June...... And our first day at Lake Garda. After breakfast which was as elaborate as expected after dinner the night before, we walked along the lakeside to the Castle so we knew where we were going on Tuesday for the wedding. Then we went on to explore some of the lovely old winding narrow streets ending up on the harbour front catching the very light breeze as the temperature was again soaring into the top 30s. After lunching here, we set off back through the streets and along the lakeside to the hotel and the pool, where we spend the rest of the afternoon vowing to explore some more tomorrow or when the sun had set and it was cooler. This never happened as it was still in the 30s at night and very still. We were meeting some of the family in Riva for drinks in the evening, so we dined early and headed over. The car gave everyone something to talk about as we made quite an entrance; their hotel was up a long straight driveway between buildings so they could hear us coming long before we arrived. It was nice to see everyone and we talked into the night, only stopped when it started to rain. So amid thunder and lightning we drove back to our hotel. The storm raged on that night, but it dawned with bright blue skies and a bit of a breeze.

Sirmionie
Sirmionie
30th June..... The lake was full of wind and kite surfers it was a magnificent sight. This was definitely their time on the lake. With the breeze we decided this was probably going to be the coolest day here so we took the boat to Sirmione at the warmest end of the lake. The boat chugged along and stopped at all the little places along the lake side including Portese we were able to pick out the mobile home we had stayed in with Dawn and Brian 5 years ago on the Panther Italia tour. Sirmione is a very beautiful place and it was quite busy. We had intended taking the little road train out to see the ruins, “but there was no train”. We started to walk but it was very hot and thankfully a kind Australian lady stopped us and said the ruins were closed so not to bother. We walked back with her chattering along the way. Ray and I shared an Ice cream Sundae while we waited for the fast boat to take us back up the lake. That night we dined in a local pizzeria on the lake front.
Malcesine in the evening sun
1st July.... We lifted the blinds to find the day bright and breezy and wonderfully a little cooler. We dressed for the Wedding and took a pleasant stroll along the lake and up into the old town meeting up with Danny (Groom) and Chris (brother and best man) and then everyone else for a quick drink, we all walked up to the Castle and awaited Leanne`s (bride) arrival. It was a beautiful setting and The Bride looked stunning in a classical slightly Roman, V necked, empire line, cream lace dress with little flowers in her hair. The Bride and Groom
The ceremony was in Italian translated by the wedding coordinator. It was a lovely relaxed service no singing just some background music. With the pictures taken in the grounds we all strolled down through the streets following the Bride and Groom to the Harbour where a boat was going to whisk us away to the reception in Riva, plying us with Champagne as we went. The reception was held outside under awnings and was a fairly elaborate meal and all very nice. After this we took our lead from the Bride and Groom and changed into swimming togs and all jumped in the pool for a swim. A welcome relief as it had risen in temperature as the day had gone on. Later that night we strolled into Riva with Sue (Ray’s sister)and Paul (Sue’s husband)chatting all the way, we had a pizza and taxied back picking up Glenis and Jeff (friends of the bride), who were also staying out of Riva and headed back dropping them off as we went.


2nd July..... 2nd July..... . I was struggling today having had a bout of food poisoning during the night (this was to plague the rest of the holiday and even when we got back). We thought it might be cooler up on the peak, and by chance we met up with Glenis and Jeff up Mount Baldo, we walked and chated all the way to the top and then back to the cable lift.Descended about 5 0’clock and headed straight for bed (Ray too) and slept soundly till gone 9.00 the next day. View of Riva from Mt Baldo
3rd July..... Still feeling the effects of the dickey tum we decided to drive up into the mountains, where it was much cooler. Seeing a sign for a waterfall we stopped and walked along the path to have a look. Cristal clear water cascading down the hill and into a beautiful clear bright pool before tumbling over rocks and out of sight around a corner. Waterfall high above Lake Garda
I had to stick my feet into the water, it was very cold. We journeyed on passed lake di Ledro and higher up into the mountains, stopping for lunch on the banks of Lake d`idro at a place called Anfo. We shared a pizza as I was still not very well. Ray enjoyed driving the windy roads, and I found one that lead us into Magasa an old mountain village with the streets getting narrower and narrower till eventually the road just stopped.
Turn back your clocks 100 years all those that enter here
Lovely
With no chance of backing we were stuck till a little old lady who had watched us come to a stop, waved to us and opened her garage allowing us to turn in it. Thanking her we travelled back the way we came to pick up the correct road. On the way back through the village we stopped a man carrying a sack to ask the way and between Italian German English and sign language we talked about the car, he took us back down through the streets to his van where he gave us a glossy magazine of the 2008 Mile Melie annual classic car race, pointing to a name which we understood to be him, he had raced this year in his 1933 Aston Martin Le-Man. Makes you wonder doesn’t it (I was surprised he didn’t have a Panther Ray). Arriving back at the hotel we had a cooling swim, dined in the hotel (not that I could eat much) and then walked along the lake side into Malcesine. It was dark and all the bars and shops were busy with activity different music played from each venue, everywhere was lit with fairy lights it was very magical. Ray and I joined all the other revellers migrating the way down through the streets. We ended up on the Harbour side for a drink and took in the atmosphere before making our way back to the hotel. The winding mountain passes
This is what it's all about
4th July..... Last Day at Lake Garda and it was a nice slow start we had arranged to meet Sue and Paul at 12.30 in Limone on the other side of the lake half way between the two of us. We decided to take the car Ferry as it was just a short walk along the lake and in the other direction from Malcesine as we hadn't walked that way before. We had a nice lunch with them and a little bit of shopping as you do have to bring back some Limoncello (lemon Liqueur). Back on the Ferry and to the pool for a swim, then we dressed ready for the evening and strolled along the lake to the Pizzeria for dinner. We had wanted to walk into Malcesine again but we were both too tired and decided to call it a night.
The view from our room
Limone
Lake Garda paddle steamer
5th July.... Leaving the Hotel early we set off to make the drive down the lake and back through the little towns and villages, already busy with people, a little sad to be leaving. We hit the motorway and retraced our steps turning for Courmayeur between Milan and Turin, it was hot and uneventful. We arrived about 4p.m.at the hotel Cristallo a pretty skiing lodge in the middle of town; I went straight to bed whilst Ray had a wander around the village taking in the sights (I also had an ice cream and a beer but don’t tell Sue Ray). This is a skiing village at the foot of Mont Blanc giving a wonderful back drop to everywhere you looked. Later we walked out together. The hotels, Bars and Shops were all very expensive, we found a more traditional little Bistro serving crepes (and steaks Ray) I settled for the plainest one on the menu as still a little unsure about my digestive system. The place buzzed with locals as the owner put tables and chairs out on the pathway, we finished by having a Crepe Suzette and a Cappuccino (well Ray did) we walked back along the High Street and headed back to the hotel.
Mont Blanc Glacier
The Mont Blanc range as seen from our hotel room
6th July..... Another early start and the first thing to negotiate was the Mont Blanc Tunnel some 7.25 miles long. Drops of rain started with some thunder and lightning and we were glad to get into the tunnel. Fully expecting sunshine to greet us at the other end we were not prepared for it to be pelting down and we made a hasty stop under some trees to put the roof up. Even though it absolutely threw it at us all the way down the mountains it was still a stunning drive. The rain stopped so we put the hood down just outside Moulin’s, where our next stopover was planned. Ray picked this one as it was in the middle of the ancient town with some buildings going back to the 11th century. Feeling much better we wasted no time and went exploring. We found the river Allier and a wide bridge crossing it. We noticed a river side cafe on the other side, just the place we thought. We sat and watched several groups of people playing boules whilst having a drink (thats us with the drink, not the boules players Ray). A large party of school kids came along in canoes ending their journey here by the cafe. They were messing about and some were in the river not the canoes it was fun to watch. We walked back over the river and into the old town stopping for another drink by the Hotel de Ville and then back to our Hotel. That evening we dined in a little creperie we had noticed earlier (Steak again Ray).
Moulins old town center The creperie

































7th July.... We headed back to the Loire valley with just the odd shower and arrived with the hood still down and were greeted with some very friendly faces at the Hostellerie de la Croix Blanche in Fontevraud. Later we met some fellow travellers in the Bar during one of the showers, they were on tour for a month around northern France ending up at Le Mans for the classic meet, one couple in a Daimler Dart, another in one of those cars that look like Panthers but not as nice (Morgan), and a third couple who should have been in a Lotus Élan but had broken down back in England and had come in their Peugeot 206 coupe. They were nice friendly people (even if one did have a Mmmmmorgan Ray) and we whiled a good couple of hours away that afternoon in the Bar, only venturing out to have a walk around the Abbey and Village between the showers. That evening We dined in the Bistro of the Hotel which turned out to be the bar with table cloths on the tables. Daimler Dart The ultimate picnic snack
The best picnic

Panther in the Marigolds

8th July.... Our last day in France and of our Holiday. As the ferry didn't leave till evening we had plenty of time on our hands so we drove up to the north coast and tootled along back towards Roscoff. We stopped off at Paimpol and had a walk around the Harbour. One of us had a crepe others settled for just a drink (but no steak Ray). Then we made the last part of the journey to Roscoff after filling the Kallista to the brim with cheap French petrol. Panther in the Sun Flowers
We arrived in good time and quite hungry so we had hotdogs etc from the little cafe in the port, putting the hood up and snuggling down inside noshing and making jokes about the armed guard that was hanging around the entrance. Smoothly drove onto the Ferry and had the front position ready for the next day. Gendarmerie at Roscoff

We had an uneventful crossing and Ray’s idea of putting the hood up the night before proved to be a good one as we arrived in Plymouth to rain and wind.
(Nothing new there then).


Sue Smith with extra’s from Ray.